Tri Make Mistakes Learn Try Again Just Like Tying a Shoe
I'm showing a Consew 206-RB that seems to be in fair shape at: http://columbus.craigslist.org/art/5262217499.html
Says its missing some parts, and that could be next to nothing, but who knows. It looks pretty complete in the pix. I consider the 206RB to be *very* slightly heavier duty than the Juki (IMO, I have both) and has the larger M style bobbin....the reverse lever on the early 206 would be less convenient for me, but the design also has its fans. I would personally prefer it to an LU-562, especially if you can buy it right. There is another 562 offered nearby also, less money and in a bit better shape.
-DC
The Juki 562 seems like a perfectly good starter machine to me. Don't let the bobbin size alone rule your decision making. The only difference to the Juki 563 really is just the slightly larger bobbin as far as I know (similar to Adler 69 vs. 169). The 563 will run out of bobbin thread, too, just a little later. Whether you change bobbins four or five times during a project is not a huge deal to me.
I owned a Juki 562 for all of one day, when I was trying to sell my Consew 225 about a year ago. I had taken the Juki 562 in a trade for a Singer 29. The lady who came to look at my then-for-sale Consew 225 offered me considerably more for the Juki 562 which needed some adjusting, so I kept the Consew.
Do not be fooled, you WILL waste material on mistakes and empty bobbins. Accept that now and it will help keep you from throwing things when you make a mistake and mess up something you have alot of time and money into. This is part of learning. We all have done it.
Couple things that will help keep the mistake cost down are:
1)Do a test run of every operation on scrap. Make sure the products/techniques/tools/machines you use will give the outcome you want on scrap. Then do it to the real thing. Once you have some experience, you can start skipping this step, but you will still get bit once in a while.
2)Be very careful of changing a design half way through. It can lead to many headaches. Mismatched dye, Unburnishable edges, impossible to reach rivets, etc. In a lot of cases, remaking is easier than fixing/changing if you factor in both material and your time.
If you run out of bobbin in the middle, leave lots of tail, cut the thread on top and bottom. Refill bobbin, then go back and start again 2-3 holes back from where you started, again leaving a long tail of thread top and bottom. After you are done the machine stitch you can go back, and carefully pull the overlapped stitches out until the top looks like you never stopped, then use hand stitching needles to pass the threads into the space between the layers of the material and tie knots there. The goal is to snugly tie off the top and bottom of where you stopped, then the top and bottom of the start, and hide it inside the seam. do not tie top to top and bottom to bottom, won't work as well.
Btw, on sneakers the seams are so short, just check the bobbin more often between seams. You won't have the small bobbin issues some guys have.......
Well first I want today that I love all of you, like in a brother sister kind of way. Now that that's over, @Sark9 I'm not in a financial or knowledgable situation to buy a machine that's not practically ready to run. I did contact the guy for that Ddl 8700 though, I love that price lol. But my question to you is why is this newer Juki so much cheaper then the consew and 562? Can the Ddl handle at least 5-6 oz of leather (and eventually stingray too)? This was actually the first machine I started looking at a year ago because a popular sneaker artisan used this before he moved on to a post bed, he had a Ddl 8700-7 though. (Also thanks for that visual comparison and guide!)
@Uwe, thanks for that. As a person whose never sewn before this can be quite overwhelming. $700 is a lot of money (to me) so I just want to make sure I'm not putting money into a machine that would be obsolete. If I could get this guy down to $600 would that be a better deal, and would u recommend the 562 over the Ddl 8700?
@TinkerTailor thanks for that explanation. It probably didn't make sense because I asked wrong lol I've never sewn before. I just knew that there were 2 different size threads being used at once and I was wondering why. Also thanks so much for the run list on how to keep mistakes down, and telling me how to fix the I ran out of bobbin thread mistake. I'm sure this is gonna come in handy I appreciate everybody very much!!
Last but not least does anybody know what size the bobbin is on the Ddl? Is it bigger then the 562? I know we've established how to get around this issue but considering this guy is selling a barely used one for 450 I'm really starting to lean that way. I do know know a Juki is a good machine I'd just appreciate a little reassurance from ppl who know what they're doing, and in regards to what I will be using the machine for. 
Source: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/40840-juki-lu-562/page/2/
0 Response to "Tri Make Mistakes Learn Try Again Just Like Tying a Shoe"
Postar um comentário